Explore the rich history and vibrant celebrations of Up Helly Aa in Lerwick.

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Every year, on the last Tuesday of January, the town of Lerwick transforms into a vibrant celebration of Viking heritage during the Up Helly Aa festival. This event, which has become the highlight of Shetland’s social calendar, attracts thousands of locals and visitors alike, all eager to witness the spectacular torch-lit procession and the ceremonial burning of a Viking galley.
The origins of Up Helly Aa
The roots of Up Helly Aa can be traced back to the 1800s, a time when Lerwick was experiencing significant growth in both size and population. Initially, the celebrations were modest, but as the community expanded, so did the festivities.
Historical records indicate that as early as the 1840s, rival groups engaged in burning tar barrels, leading to complaints from the town’s middle-class residents. In response, special constables were employed to curb these activities, but the participants found creative ways to continue their revelry, often disguising themselves in sacks for added excitement.
Evolution of the festival
As the years progressed, a group of young men took it upon themselves to enhance the event by incorporating more Viking themes. It was during this time that the name Up Helly Aa was adopted, along with the introduction of guizing and the iconic torch-lit procession that characterizes the festival today. The Viking galley, a central symbol of the celebration, made its debut in the late 1880s, further solidifying the festival’s connection to its Norse roots. By 1906, the role of the chief guizer was established, and the tradition of having a Jarl Squad lead the procession became standard practice after World War I.
Modern-day celebrations
Today, Up Helly Aa is a testament to the resilience and spirit of the Shetland community. The festival features a proclamation at Market Square, often filled with humorous jabs at authority, and culminates in an hours-long after-party held in various halls throughout the town. Despite facing challenges and attempts to cancel the event in the past, Up Helly Aa has remained a cherished tradition, largely unchanged for over a century. Participants must reside in Shetland for at least five years before joining a squad, which consists of hundreds of guizers who march through the town. Remarkably, nearly 1,000 men participate each year, a significant increase from the early days of the festival.
Recent changes and inclusivity
The festival continues to evolve, with 2023 marking a significant change in its inclusivity. For the first time, women and girls were allowed to join Up Helly Aa squads, reflecting a broader commitment to diversity and community engagement. This shift not only enhances the festival’s vibrancy but also ensures that the traditions of Up Helly Aa remain relevant and accessible to all members of the Shetland community.