Giles Coren returns to Wales, praising its vibrant restaurant scene and savoring local dishes.
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Food lovers, rejoice! Renowned food writer and columnist Giles Coren is back in Wales, ready to dive deep into the region’s culinary scene. After his memorable trip to Pembrokeshire in 2022, where he boldly declared a preference for Welsh cuisine over the likes of fancy places such as Sketch and Noma, he’s returned to revisit old favorites and uncover some hidden gems.
Returning to Favorite Dining Spots
On this culinary adventure, Coren made a point to revisit several beloved eateries in West Wales. Among his top picks are Grain, Santos Ty Tapas, and Oriel y Parc in St Davids, alongside the much-loved fish and chip spot, The Shed at Porthgain.
He also dropped by the Black Bear Inn in Monmouthshire, a pub that has proudly held a spot in the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs for the last four years. This charming pub is run by the dynamic duo, Josh and Hannah Byrne, who made the leap from Bristol to Bettws Newydd back in 2018.
Since their arrival, the Black Bear Inn has racked up some impressive accolades, even landing a spot in this year’s Good Food Guide. Coren couldn’t help but sing its praises, particularly lauding its carefully curated selection of wines from France, Italy, and Spain, as well as local brews like the famed Butty Bach from the Wye Valley Brewery.
Exquisite Culinary Offerings
When it comes to the food at the Black Bear Inn, Coren was nothing short of impressed. He couldn’t stop raving about Josh’s deep-fried potato skins with whipped cod’s roe, saying they “soared above [his] expectations” and even admitting he drove 149 miles just to get a taste. At just £6.50, he described the dish as “really potatoey, like the mummy and daddy of the first potato chip, hot and glassy crisp, sizzling in the fishy smear. Perfect with a big slurp of the Butty.” How’s that for a glowing review?
Other standout dishes included a chicken and wild boar terrine (£13), which he deemed “good and coarse and strong,” and fava bean panisses (£5), showcasing what he called “Michelin-level control and precision.” Not to mention the Welsh rarebit (£5), which he described as historic, with its cheese filling whipped up like a soufflé. Can you imagine that flavor?
Changes Ahead for the Black Bear Inn
However, not all news is good at the Black Bear Inn. In a bittersweet announcement back in May, the owners revealed their plans to sell the pub—a surprise to many considering its recent successes. But don’t worry; they reassured patrons that the sale won’t be rushed and expect the process to take at least a year. What do you think will happen next?
During his culinary quest, Coren also made a stop at Santos Ty Tapas, a lively spot that’s taken over a former surf shop. There, he savored bold, flavor-packed Spanish tapas and noted the vibrant atmosphere, attributing the kitchen’s consistency to its close relationship with Grain.
Coren’s morning at Brunch House at Oriel y Parc featured a Savory French toast (£11) that was as visually striking as it was delicious, loaded with beans, cheese, bacon, and a fried egg. He wrapped up his culinary tour at the ever-popular The Shed in Porthgain, where he encouraged visitors to indulge in fresh lobsters or haddock and chips paired with breathtaking views. Sounds like a perfect way to end the day, don’t you think?
