From treetop bungalows to silent river paddles, experience the raw beauty of Costa Rica's wilderness and the conservation efforts that keep it thriving.
Nestled in the heart of Costa Rica’s untamed wilderness, the Maqueenque Eco-Lodge and Tortuguero National Park offer a glimpse into a world teeming with life and vibrant ecosystems. Andrew Dunbar’s journey through these remote regions reveals not only the breathtaking diversity of wildlife but also the deep commitment of local communities to conservation.
Perched high above the forest floor in a 10-metre-high treehouse Dunbar’s first encounter with the wild is a close one. A spider monkey with its reddish-brown body and gangling black arms, swings effortlessly from tree to tree, its tail acting as a fifth limb.
The canopy comes alive with these acrobatic creatures, leaving Dunbar in awe of their grace and agility.
Paddling Through Tortuguero’s Waterways
In the early hours of the morning, Dunbar and his guide, Antonio navigate the silent waters of Tortuguero National Park.
The river, calm and serene, is home to a variety of wildlife. Antonio’s keen eye spots a sloth in the trees, a creature known for its slow movements, even in the water. “You’ve seen a dog. Sloths swim that way, but maybe ten times slower,” Antonio explains.
The river is a haven for birdwatchers, with vultures and green ibis soaring overhead. Dunbar is fortunate to witness bottlenose dolphins gliding through the water, their curves elegant and effortless. However, it is the howler monkeys that capture his attention. Their calls, a drawn-out ululating yawn, echo through the forest, a reminder of the wild symphony that surrounds them.
Exploring the Rainforest on Foot
Venturing deeper into the rainforest, Dunbar and Antonio traverse wet trails lined with gavilán trees and arching palm fronds. The path is a treasure trove of smaller creatures, including a bright yellow snake curled on a palm leaf. Antonio identifies it as an eyelash palm pit viper a highly venomous species. This encounter highlights the shift in local attitudes towards conservation, as Antonio shares stories of his father’s past and the current protection of all snakes in Costa Rica.
The forest is alive with the sounds of monkeys and the vibrant calls of toucans. Antonio’s expertise guides them to a blue jeans poison dart frog its bright red body and rapid “che-che-che” chirp a testament to the forest’s biodiversity. As they walk through the village, Dunbar gains insight into the local way of life and the community’s dedication to preserving their natural heritage.
Night Walks and Nocturnal Encounters
As twilight falls, Dunbar embarks on a night walk armed with a torch and guided by Gabriel. The boardwalk, narrow and precarious, winds through the darkening forest. Gabriel’s torch reveals a world of nocturnal creatures, including the bullet ant known for its painful sting, and various species of spiders and lizards.
The highlight of the night walk is the discovery of frogs particularly the red-eyed tree frog and the Palmer’s tree frog. Their vibrant colors and unique characteristics add to the enchantment of the rainforest. Midway through the walk, the group turns off their torches, immersing themselves in the darkness and experiencing the forest as the animals do.
The Conservation Efforts of Maquenque
Dunbar’s journey continues to Maqueenque Eco-Lodge in Boca Tapada where he encounters a variety of birds and the rare great green macaw. The lodge’s founder, Eduardo a farmer turned conservationist, shares his vision for preserving the forest. “First decision: don’t continue cutting trees and don’t kill the snake. Because tourist, they like to see. So we move the snake; we don’t kill,” Eduardo explains through his son, Julio.
Eduardo’s passion for the forest is evident in his love for the lapa verde the critically endangered great green macaw. Before Dunbar’s departure, Eduardo serenades him with a song about the macaw’s flight, a promise to never let the species become extinct. This commitment to conservation is a testament to the dedication of the local community and their efforts to protect Costa Rica’s natural treasures.
